Back to the States - January 2012

Well, it’s almost the end of January.  I’m writing this from St Augustine, Florida.  After leaving the Exumas Land and Sea Park, we got into travel mode for our passage back to the States.  The weather outlook was favorable for a return passage, so we were shooting to take advantage of it while it was there.  We did a day trip to Highbourne Cay, where we refueled and got water, plus a little internet time.  Pat got in her last opportunity for snorkeling. The next day we left early, headed for Nassau.  We made good time, and arrived in Nassau, after passing across the Yellow Banks (a known area for coral heads to avoid).  We had good tides and good visibility (sun overhead), and made it through OK – only had to dodge a few.  We got into Nassau at 3:00 and anchored in Nassau Harbor, across from the Atlantis Resort.  Since we were in travel mode, we didn’t stop to go ashore.  We ended up bumping another boat at anchor about 3:30 in the morning (a French Canadian with 100 ft of chain out).  So, we decided to pull anchor and leave at 4:00A for our next destination.  We left Nassau in the dark (nice deep channel), and passed all the cruise ships waiting in line to come in the next morning.  Our destination was the Berry Islands.  We ended up stopping just on the other side of Little Stirrup Cay.  Little Stirrup is an island owned by the cruise lines, that they have developed into an island playground for their customers.  A cruise ship was docked when we arrived, so we went around to find an anchorage for the night.  The next morning we were on the move again with a 6:00A start for Lucaya on Grand Bahama Island.  We made excellent time (under motor and sail), and also got a chance to learn more about the capabilities of the radar to track other vessels we passed (big ships).  We made it into Lucaya around 2:00P and went into a marina.  We stayed for two nights, and got to see a little bit of the island by motor scooter, and by walking.  Lucaya is home to the Grand Lucayan beach resort – a very nice upscale facility.  While on motor scooters, we stopped for lunch at a lovely nature preserve.  From Lucaya, we left for our crossing back to the states on Thursday morning the 26th.  Our plan was to round the southern part of Grand Bahama Island, and set a course to St Augustine, taking advantage of the Gulf Stream as we headed north.  The forecast called for 15 knot winds from the East / Southeast for the next two days, with a cold front coming through late Friday that would shift winds to the North (not good for a gulf stream crossing).  Our weather window allowed for an overnight sail to reach St Augustine before the front arrived (about 30 hours).  We left at 6:30A in light showers, and set our course for St Augustine.  Off of West End, we stopped to assist a couple of men in a 20 foot power boat that had run out of fuel.  We responded to their Mayday call. Seems they had left the Florida coast bound for Bimini, and had been carried north by the gulf stream to West End on Grand Bahama.  They had no spare fuel and no working GPS, and actually thought they were off the coast of Bimini.  We gave them what gas we had on board and contacted local help to assist them, then continued our trip. The night sail was good, with 15-20 knot winds that were more from the South than the Southeast. By the time morning came, winds had increased and began to clock more from the West, and eventually due North – the front had arrived early.  We battled 30 plus knot winds dead on our nose, and choppy seas, through the morning.  The wind and seas began to subside around 1:00 as we approached St Augustine.  Our information on the inlet said to obtain local knowledge, and not to approach in any chop, so our backup was to head on up to Jacksonville for an entry if we couldn’t make it into St Augustine.  As it turned out, the weather died down and we entered St Augustine without problem.  The inlet was a dramatic one, with surf breaking on either side of you as you came in through a narrow, but well marked channel.  St Augustine itself is a popular boating stop, with a nice old historic section and many nice restaurants.  We settled into the marina, took nice hot showers and went for a very nice dinner at a place by the name of Raintree. The city, and the restaurant, are definitely worth another visit someday. Now that we're back, its time to go home for a visit.         

Anchored in Nassau Harbor

Dawn - after leaving Nassau

  

Entering Lucaya

Heron in the nature garden 

Local Parrot

Marina in St Augustine

St Augustine Waterfront

Camachee Island Marina

Flagler College building

Traveling North from Georgetown - January 2012

On Wednesday, January 11 we topped off with fuel and water in Georgetown, and started north up the Exuma chain. Our schedule called for being in the Abacos, at West End by February 1 for a crossing back to the states.  We left Georgetown, bound for Galliot Cut, with a schedule of stops to make on the way north.  Our actual destination ended up being Cave Cay, where we stopped for the night in the company of a French charter boat that had party music and lights going into the night. From there, we moved further north, picking out good snorkeling spots.  We saw three eagle rays in formation on the north side of Galliot Cay, along with a huge turtle.  We moved up to Little Farmers Cay, where we helped a local lady clean lobster heads, and bought some very nice (huge) lobster tails for eating later. Our next stop was Staniel Cay, where we snorkeled Thunderball Cave (of James Bond fame), had some good cracked conch, and rejoined some friends from the Abacos who were in the same anchorage.  After that, we headed to Sampson Cay to wait out a front that was forecast to be coming through.  The front didn’t come as strong as forecast, so we headed on to the Pipe Creek area.  The wind was blowing 25- 30 knots when we got out, so we motored around to Pipe Creek, and anchored for the night.  Pipe Creek was beautiful – lots of shallow water, with beautiful colors and islands dotted all around. Very much worth a stop – a place I would like to return to. From there, we headed on to the Warderick Wells area.  After motoring through a challenging cut, we enjoyed a sail in 20 knots winds, coming into the back side of Warderick Wells. The following morning we went around to the front side of the park by the ranger station.  This is the heart of the Exumas Land and Sea Park, a protected area for both land and sea creatures.  The anchorage in front of the Park HQ is one of the most picturesque areas I have seen.  We enjoyed a walk up to Boo Boo Hill, where cruisers leave remembrances of their boat, and there are scenic views of the area.  We got to visit local blow holes (no water, but strong gusts of wind.  For dinner we had some of the lobster tails purchased earlier – most excellent. Our plans from here are to work our way north to Highbourne Cay, and leave from there for Nassau, then to Bimini, and then to West End to wait for a crossing to the states.      

"Downtown" - Little Farmers Cay

Sunset - Cave Cay

Party Boat - Cave Cay

The airstrip on Little Farmers Cay

Local Inhabitant - Pipe Creek

Private Boat Harbor - Pipe Creek

Little Pipe Cay Resort

Touring by Dinghy - Pipe Creek

Stone trail markers - Warderick Wells

Anchorage at Warderick Wells

Hilltop view of Warderick Wells anchorage

Pat meets the blowhole

Pat & Bill on Boo Boo Hill

Georgetown, Exumas - January 2012

We left at 7:30 the next morning to make it through the cut before the tide built up the waves too much (they tend to get choppy as the tidal current builds).  We were in the company of two trawlers and a couple of sailboats.  The trawlers were with us until we reached Georgetown – and they were having much better luck fishing than we were.  We arrived in Georgetown just before 2:00P and anchored at Stocking Island, just in time for afternoon volleyball. Stocking Island is a picture perfect location, with plenty of organized activities to keep you busy.  We visited for a couple of days, with Pat & Walt catching up with old friends. We attended beach church on Sunday - a unique experience - we actually had a trio of violins playing. We got in plenty of volleyball and beach walking, and visited Georgetown for groceries and laundry. Pat and I had a nice walk around the island .yesterday while Walt played volleyball. We had cocktails with boating friends, and a good dinner afterwards - steaks for a change of pace.   As I make this post, it is Tuesday Jan 10. Pat and Walt are playing Tuesday night Texas Holdum at the St Francis while I do a little computer time.  Our plans are to top off with fuel and water tomorrow, then start to head north on Wednesday for our return to the states in mid-February. Seems like it’s too soon, but we have to stick to schedule to get back in time.  We'll see how internet access is along the way - will update as I get the chance.

Margaritaville

Leaving Galliott Cut

Volleyball Beach 

Stocking Island Sunset

Beach Church

Beach Church Choir

View from St Francis Hotel

Stocking Island Anchorage

Staniel Cay, Exumas - January 2012

Gypsea Heart left for an overnight sail to Conception Cay, while we continued south.  We left though a cut heading for the Exuma Banks (as opposed to Exuma Sound). The cut was narrow, and the light not the best.  We ran aground on a sandy bottom, but got off with an assist from the sails and the dinghy. That afternoon we got to Big Majors Spot and anchored for the night.  In the morning, we fed the pigs that hang out on shore (they enjoyed a feast of old brussel sprouts). We visited Fowl Cay, home of a sandals resort, and then took the dinghy to Staniel Cay for lunch.  It was a bid chilly for snorkeling, so we passed on Thunderball cave – will save that for another visit. The rest of the day was a motorsail south to Big Farmers Cay.  We got in with only about 20 minutes of daylight left, and anchored behind Galliott Cay for an early departure the next morning through Galliott Cut into Exuma Sound.  We were only one island away from Musha Cay (owned by David Copperfield, with its own resort).  This area was just a beautiful, isolated anchorage.

A Staniel Cay Pig

Feeding Time

Fowl Cay Beach

 

Anchorage at Big Major Spot

Fowl Cay

Fowl Cay

Cambridge Cay, Exumas - January 2012

We left Highborne Cay on a sail down to Cambridge Cay – our original destination the day before.  Everything was working on the boat again (except for a ground short in the AC panel – something for later).  We had a good sail down to Cambridge, and tried a little fishing along the way.  We had a lot of strikes, but only got one fish out of six strikes, and lost four lures – not a good fishing day. But the keeper was a Mahi that made a good dinner that night.  We anchored that night behind Cambridge Cay, with a strong current.  This was in the southern part of the Exumas Land and Sea Park, which is a  protected area for sea life, so great great snorkeling is plentiful. That night a front came through with winds of over 30 knots.  It was supposed to last most of the next day, so after riding out a windy night, we moved to a mooring the next day.  That afternoon, we moved on to Little Halls Pond Cay (owned by Johnny Depp), and snorkled the “aquarium”.  Since this was our last night with Sandy and Rankin aboard Gypsy Heart, we went over for a good dinner and rousing game of dominos.  

Gypsea Heart leaving Highbourne Cay

Gypsea Heart under sail

Sandy and Rankin

Approaching Cambridge Cay

Dreamer - under sail

Off of Little Hall Pond Cay

German Boat - Little Hall Pond Cay

New Year's 2012

We got to celebrate Katherine’s birthday a little early – before she flew back home.  After Christmas, Kim stayed for a few more days.  We visited Little Harbor by car and visited the studio of a local artist – Pete’s Pub and Gallery.  His is an interesting story of an expatriate artist who settled in this area seeking artistic freedom.  On Kim’s last day, we sailed to Man O War Cay, then had lunch on Guana Cay and returned to Marsh Harbor for her flight the next day.  We left that afternoon, and sailed south to catch fireworks at Lubbers Quarter – a very nice show. The following day, after snorkeling, we left for an overnight sail to Warderick Wells in the Exumas.  It was a light wind motorsail.  We were entertained by crusie ships moving back and forth from Nassau, and fireworks at midnight from Spanish Wells on Eleuthera.  We arrived on the banks in early morning, but crossed an area with multiple shallow coral heads, and with bad light (heading into the sunlight).  We avoided all the coral heads but one.  We hit it on the keel and rudder.  After a check of the boat, we had no visible structural damage – just cosmetic damage to interior veneer (from compression of the rudder post).  All in all, pretty lucky, and not something we want to repeat.  We were almost to our destination when the throttle stuck in reverse.  We were forced to divert to Highbourne Cay and sail into an anchorage where we could work on it.  Gypsea Heart diverted with us and led us into the anchorage.  We dove on the boat and confirmed that the keel and rudder scraped through the coral about five inches deep, but other than lost paint, no permanent damage. The afternoon was spent taking the throttle apart and troubleshooting it.  Luckily we got it working again with Walt and Rankin’s help.  All in all, a pretty eventful 24 hours.

Birthday Cake on Gypsea Heart

Fireworks at Lubbers Quarter

Mimosas 

Local Sailor at Guana Cay

Gypsea Heart at Lubbers Quarter

Nice House - Lubbers Quarter